Comment
to the breed standard for Presa Canario / Dogo Canario
I.
NAME AND SYNONYMY
The official and widely
accepted name is CANARIAN DOGO, although in days gone by, traditionally
the most common name in Gran Canaria was "GRIPPING DOG" (‘GRIPPER’), due
to the variety of colors, all which were acceptable, and in Tenerife,
the most common name was "VERDINO" (BRINDLE), as the majority of the
dogs were that color. The name "VERDINO" is not the same as "BARDINO",
as ‘bardino’ is the color of the bardino majorero. The color ‘verdino’
was the result of the mixing of ‘bardino’ with fawn and white; which
means that it is exclusive to the ‘gripping’ dog, is greenish in color,
short, dull and fairly rough. The name "PERRO BASTO" (meaning something
like "rough dog"), according to oral tradition, differentiates the dog
from the hunting dog or "PODENCO", which was known as the "FINE DOG".
II.
GENERAL APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER
1. APPEARANCE
That of a medium sized
animal, robust build, rectangular profile and particularly solid. It has
always been a versatile dog, used in the handling and subjugation of
cattle, the guarding and protection of property and in fighting, as it
is, due to its ancestry, particularly well prepared to do so. These many
activities, usually carried out in a rural environment, have been the
gymnastics of an athletic body, which, today, is a perfectly skilled
guard and defense dog. Powerful muscles, a wide and deep chest and
fairly short limbs give the animal the "power" and "stability" it needs
as a low set, broad animal, that moves close to the ground and the
longish body, more evident in females, provides a certain "flexibility"
and, therefore, agility, in spite of being quite a heavy animal for its
size.
2. CHARAKTER
Very even-tempered, with
great self-control, and game. Dissuasive, serious and sober, factors
added to by its presence. Of a very frank character, although a little
stubborn, which should be taken into account when is still a puppy,
because such a powerful animal should be obedience trained. Quick to
learn, in the future, the dog will be able to carry out duties other
than the traditional ones.
III.
EXTERNAL MORPHOLOGY
1. Head
2. Face
3. Stop
4. Snout
5. Flews
6. Corner of
mouth
7. Facial
outline
8. Eyes
9. Eyelids
10. Ear
11. Occiput
12. Masseters
13. Frontal
sinus
14. Neck
15. Arch of
neck
16. Dewlap
17. Withers
18. Back
19. Loin
21. Spine/Femur
ang
22. shoulder
23. Shoulder
24. Tip of
breastbone
25. Upper arm
26. Elbow
27. Forearm
28. Carpus
29. Metacarpus
30. Toes
31. Chest
32. Ribcage
33. Flank
34. Stomach
35. Groin
36. Thigh
37. Buttock
38. Stifle
39. Leg
40. Hock
41. Metatarsus
42. Topline
43. Tail
Important messurements:
1 snout
2 scull
3 angle between snout and scull
4 cylyndric neck
5 cheast is hight in the withers + 45%
6 withers
7 hight to the elbow is 50 % of high in the withers
8 lnght of the back
9 lenght of the body is hight in the withers plus 18% - 20%
10 hight of the rare
11 topline is stright, slightly rising to the rare
12 hight of the hock
1.
SIZE
The standard accepts
variations of about 4 - 5 cm. for both sexes, but perfection lies
somewhere in between, i.e., about 62 -63 cm. for males and 57 - 59 cm.
for females. Generally, specimens of minimum or maximum size are less
balanced. In the middle range of sizes, the Canarian Dogo has greater
personality, as in addition to an athletic body it has great speed and
ease of movement, which, for obvious reasons, are reduced in the minimum
and maximum sizes. Judges should not accept tall dogs, as breeding from
dogs of the maximum size will lead to dimensions which are incompatible
with their work and will modify the morphology established by the
standard.
2.
HEAD
Brachycephalic/Squarish,
like a slightly elongated cube, with no pronounced angles, broad and
muscular. The head of the Canarian Dogo should be large, although always
in line with the body size, so that the front and hindquarters are
balanced. A head that is too large will affect movement and will reduce
the overall symmetry. Craniofacial proportion should be around 60% -
40%, although a 55% - 45% proportion is preferable to a truncated
muzzle. If the proportion is correct, the fit and development of the
teeth will not be a problem. The size of the head and face should not be
very different. We should be looking for well developed faces or
muzzles, with very broad mouths, which gives greater bite capacity. The
head of the Canarian Dogo should be balanced, solid and compact, forming
one unit, free of sharp edges and projections. The length is about 40%
of the height at the withers. The skin should be loose but not too much;
tight skin, without wrinkles, is unacceptable. The coat, be it brindle,
striped, fawn or sandy, is always very coarse.
Proportions od scull.
From left - snout to short. Correct proportions (6:4). To long snout
2.1.
Head and skull
The length should be 60%
of the whole of the head. It is practically as long as it is wide. Seen
from the side, the skull is slightly convex at the top, at the occiput,
which should not be visible and should be covered with a thick layer of
muscle. The convexity of the skull disappears above the frontal bone,
which is almost flat. Therefore, the skull should never be vaulted. The
frontal sinuses are divided by a deep groove, which is about two thirds
of the total length of the skull. The front of the head is covered with
abundant, loose skin, forming regular, slight wrinkles, showing movement
and expression. The wrinkles are very important in the description of
the breed.The zygomatic arches, temporalis and masseters should form a
whole, compact and with no sharp angles. We should reject prominent
masseters, which lessen the expression of the head.
The occiput is
unappreciable, as we have said, thanks to the well developed muscles at
the nape of the neck and to the occipital fold of loose skin.
The head is
bachycefalic in shape.
2.2.
Face or Muzzle
It is shorter than the
head. It measures about 40% of the total length of the head; about 10
cm. Wide at the base and full, thanks to well developed masseters, or
cheek muscles, and lifting muscles and it gets slightly smaller towards
the snout.
The bridge of the nose
is flat and straight. A convergent bridge is not at all advisable, even
if it is slight, as this usually raises the snout.
A ridged bridge of the
nose is a fault that should be eliminated in breeding.
Given that the frontal
bone is practically flat and that the bridge of the nose is straight,
the stop or frontonasal depression is definite, but not brusque. This
contributes a great deal to the expression of the head.
Above the frontal bone,
the edge of the eye sockets create a typical fold in the skin, which
falls forward at the sides of the head.
Scull and muzzle
seeing from front are of similar widness.
lines of scull and
muzzle. On the left is correct. In the center nose is to high -
incorrect. On the right lines are crossin - partly acceptable. On the
bottom total disqualification
2.3.
Nose or Snout
Wide, heavily pigmented in black. At the same level as the bridge of the
nose. The tip is slightly shorter than the front edges of the flews. The
nostrils are wide, suited to making breathing easier.
2.4.
Lips or Flews
They should neither be
snipey nor excessive; that is, they should hang reasonably loose, which
lends expression. Seen from the side, the flews are slightly further
forward than the snout. The upper lips hang over the lower lips, and,
seen from the front, form an inverted "V". The lips and mouth lining are
always dark in colour.
At the lesft to short muzzle. Upper center
image muzzle set tu much to the front. On therigh to long muzzle.
Bottom center image - corrct set and lenght
of muzzle
2.5.
Jawbones
Wide, well set in, large
molars, small incisors and well developed canines interlocking in pairs.
The teeth of the
Canarian Dogo are an essential part of the anatomy. The development of
the jawbone has a lot to do with the teeth. When the jawbones grow
unevenly, the upper and lower teeth do not fit properly and the result
is an excessively undershot or overshot mouth. However, when growth is
correct both jawbones are even and, normally, the lower incisors touch
the inner part of the upper incisors, with the cutting point halfway up
the upper incisor, and the canines, or ‘trappers’, mesh together forming
a magnificent grip. This is what is known as the scissor bite, and is
the most sought after. The jaws, incisors and canines trap the prey and
hold on with a steady grip.
When the upper jaw does
not grow enough - we should avoid, as we have already said, a truncated
muzzle - the bite is the inverted scissor bite; i.e., the lower teeth
touch the upper teeth on the outer part. This bite is perfectly
acceptable.
In cases where the
incisors touch tip to tip, we have the pincer or pliers bite, where
gripping power is minimal and the wearing away of teeth is great. This
type of bite is undesirable.
When the upper jawbone
is short, the lower teeth are too far forward and this produces
prognathism (an undershot mouth) which, when it is more than three
millimetres, is a fault and has a negative effect on the expression. In
addition, in these cases, the premolars are often missing, and,
sometimes, there is nothing for them to grow from.
The space between the
canines should be as big as possible and the incisors should be level.
Badly aligned incisors is a fault. Remember that the ‘gripping dog uses
only the incisors and the canines to grip.
inver scissors (on
left) - acceptable. Scissors - correct. Pinzer bite on the right is
incorrect
Odległość pomiędzy kłami powinna
być jak największa a siekacze powinny być położne w jednej linii. Kiedy
siekacze są krzywo rozłożone jest to wadą. Należy pamiętać, że pies
chwytający używa tylko kłów i siekaczy do przytrzymywania zdobyczy.
2.6.
Palate
The ridges of the palate should be well marked
and pinkish-black in color.
3. EYES
The eyes should be
hooded, with well developed superciliary arches. The eyes must be large
and widely set, although they should always be on the front part of the
face and never towards the sides. They should be neither sunken nor
protruding and should be bright and have a noble expression to them.
They should be dark
chestnut in color, the darker the better, although the color of the coat
does have something to do with this. Yellow eyes should be rejected, as
they give a hard look and expression.
The eyelids should be
heavily pigmented in black, very slightly oval in shape and always taut,
but never tight. The conjunctiva should never be visible.
4.
EARS
The ears should always
be medium sized, with short, fine hair, falling loosely on each side of
the head. If folded, they form a rose shape close to the head. The base
of the ear is set slightly above the outer edge of the eye. Ears set too
high are not desirable and crowd the crown of the head. If cropped, they
are straight.
5.
NECK
Shorter than the total
length of the head. Its average length is about 20 cm.. There should be
a slight dewlap on the underside. Very well muscled to grip and shake
the prey, and is almost cylindrical from top to bottom. An excessively
long or short neck is a fault, as are taut skin, lack of wrinkles and
absence of dewlap.
6.
FOREQUARTERS
Solid, straight and
parallel, which indicates strong bone structure and muscles, never weak.
The shoulders should be broad and robust, and sloped, which gives ease
of movement and affects the spacing of the front legs. If there is not
enough slope to the shoulders or if they are straight, the ribcage will
be flat, the gait will be incorrect and the brisket will be shallow.
In males, the length of
the forearm to the elbow is, on average, 32 cm., which is about 50% of
the height at the withers. The elbows should neither stick out nor be
held too close to the body, i.e. they should be loose.
The foot is made up of
four rounded toes and one vestigial toe on the inner part. Pads are
large and black. Nails dark. White nails are undesirable, although they
can seen depending on the color of the coat.
correct
barrle shape -
incorrect
french shape -
incorrect
Elbows incorrect
Sever defect.
Not enaugh cheast. Elbows short and stright
7.
TRUNK
7.1.
Thorax
and cheast
The girth of the chest
established by the standard should be maintained, so the average chest
size for males could be about 88 cm.. Taking this average, the
difference between the straight girth and the height at withers is more
than 20 cm., which gives a broad, deep chest.
Good length of back in
the rib area gives good thoracic capacity and, therefore, good lung
capacity. The depth of the chest represents 50% of the height at
withers; i.e., there should be about the same distance from the foot to
the elbow as from the withers to the elbow. This is the ideal
proportion. The chest, or brisket, should be slightly lower than the
elbow.
When the standard speaks
of the cylindrical ribcage, it means that "the ribs should be well
sprung, but not barrel shaped or rounded".
The width of the chest
is as important as the depth, as it is the most visible part of the
‘gripping’ dog. It must be ample. that is to say, it must have well
developed forequarters. Therefore, the pectoral muscles will be very
powerful, especially at the tip of the breastbone. The depth of the
chest should be frontal and lateral, forming a whole. From the dorsal
line to the breastbone there should be about 31 cm..
The following are
considered faults in the body, a saddle back, dropped loins, ribcage not
arched enough, insufficient depth or width of chest, poor upper chest,
belly too or insufficiently tucked up and too much length in the body,
which gives the impression that we are looking at two different dogs,
due to the weak loin.
The topline or
dorsolumbar line is straight, with no defects, supported by well
developed, but not very visible, muscles. It rises slightly towards the
top of the loin and its strength determines the flexibility of the
animal.
Upper line is
stright
incorrect upper lines:
Saddle
Linia górna karpiowata
7.2.
Loin
Should be wide and
rounded. The haunch should fall slightly towards the base of the tail.
It should not be too long, as this would cause a dropped loin. It should
be neither too high nor too low, as this would limit movement.
A high loin means open
angles and so, straight stifles and hocks. A low loin means cow hocks,
with joints pointing inwards and a lack of strength.
The loin should be
slightly higher than the withers; so, the topline should rise from the
withers to the top of the lion, which is quite normal in Molosser and
gripping dogs. In some cases the height at the withers is the same as
the height at the loin. The slope in relation to the topline can be
about 20%.
Zad prawidłowy i prawidłowe
osadzenie ogona
7.3.
Belly
The belly is usually
only slightly tucked up, because the ‘gripping’ dog usually carries
quite a lot of weight, but it is never dropped.
7.4.
Genitalia
Developed testicles,
should be fully descended into the scrotum. The less the scrotum hangs
loosely, the better.
8.
TAIL
The tail base should be
set high and the root of the tail must be thick, as this contributes to
the appearance. The tail should not be too long, it should just reach
the hocks, and it should be very strong. This enables it to be swayed
like a sabre, without brushing the back, and it would be quite effective
as a rudder. It should measure 40 cm..
Incorrect
Incorrect
9.
HINDQUARTERS
The hindquarters should
be strong and parallel, with no faults, which means a well muscled loin
to carry the hindquarters. Well developed hind legs not only means that
the animal can jump or easily reach reasonable speed, but they also act
as an anchor when the dog is biting, vital for a ‘gripping’ dog.
Moderate angulation at
the hocks, but not too poor, as the loin would be too high and would
affect movement.
The feet should be
strong and well arched. A narrow, long foot would weaken the
hindquarters and would cause fatigue and, therefore, excessive
angulation.
The thighs should be
parallel to the middle of the body. The legs, slightly sloping from top
to bottom and from front to back.
The angle between the
tibia and the metatarsus or the hock is open, about 150°. The hocks are
always low.
The dewclaw on the inner
part of the leg is a throwback that is not very common. It is
undesirable and should be removed at birth.
The following are
considered faults in the legs; hind or front angulation that is lacking
or excessive, cow hocks or bow legs, atrophy of the toes, squashed toes
and walking on the heels.
from left: correct. incorrect "cow hocked".
incorrect "x shape"
10. GAIT AND
MOVEMENT
The movement should
cover a lot of ground, be agile and elastic. The stride should be long.
This indicates particularly strong hindquarters, well-muscled and which
push the animal forward.
In movement, the head is
barely raised above the topline.
The legs follow a
diagonal movement, i.e., the hind right follows the front left, the hind
left follows the front right, and so on.
The following are
considered faults in gait/movement; unsteadiness, ‘hackney’ steps, front
and hind legs moving in unison and crossing or plaiting of legs.
11.
WIGHT
The bone and muscle
structures of the Canarian Dogo are genetically very robust. Therefore,
the animal need not be fat or fleshy to look good. A good indication of
the correct weight is the underside of the body, which should be tucked
up at the belly, although not too much. When the underside is too tucked
up and the flanks are over marked, the animal is too thin, and vice
versa. A sagging belly is incompatible with the personality of the dog.
12.
COAT
The hair of the Canarian
Dogo should be rough, not too short, dull and never smooth or shiny. It
can be slightly longer at the withers, on the underside of the neck and
around the haunches. It is soft to the touch on the head, chest and
thighs, but rougher on the rest of the body.
The colour should be as
uniform as possible. Brindle and striped are the most desirable, being
one of the most characteristic points in identifying the breed. Dark
stripes are an ideal colour for guard dogs. The most desirable of the
shades of fawn is the middle range, tending to ochre-yellow.
Usually all dogs have a
white mark on the chest, in some cases bigger than others. The mask is
always dark, tending to black. There may also be white markings at the
base of the neck or on the feet. Any other type of markings is a fault. |